Few things will be handed to you on a plate in Milan – except, perhaps, a generous portion of rich and creamy risotto con ossobuco. The Lombard capital has an enviable wealth of restaurants, shops and galleries but the best are often hard to find. That’s where we come in. We’ll steer you towards the top bars for a negroni and reveal the hotels that we long to hunker down in, from polished renaissance palazzos to cosy family-run boutiques. Milan has a reputation for being industrious but look in the right places and you’ll discover that it also knows how to let its hair down. Don’t take our word for it: don your snappiest gear and see for yourself. The Monocle Travel Guide series reveals our favourite places in each city we cover, from the ideal route for an early-morning run to the best spots for independent retail. Full of surprises and quirks, they also feature detailed design and architecture pages, neighbourhood walks to get you away from the crowds and our favourite places to eat everything be it tasty fast food or something truly celebratory.